Celebrating an International Fashion & Craftmanship Icon: Salvatore Ferragamo 

By Silvia Davi

An inside look at a legendary life and fashion house, explore the legacy of the brand and the visionary founder that left a mark in fashion forever. After touring the beautiful museum in Florence, Stefania Ricci, Director of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museo, provided fascinating insights and details on this inspiring family business and global fashion brand.

1) Ferragamo is a unique and truly respected global fashion brand, synonymous with Italian quality and excellence. Can you describe its legacy?

Ferragamo is a symbol of Italian craftsmanship and luxury, known for its commitment to quality and timeless style. The brand started with Salvatore Ferragamo’s vision and skill, creating shoes that were not just beautiful but also incredibly comfortable. Over the years, it has grown into a globally recognized name, representing the best of Italian design, combining tradition with innovation. Ferragamo’s legacy continues to influence the fashion world, particularly with its dedication to art and craftsmanship.

2) Salvatore Ferragamo was an incredible visionary, a modern-day Renaissance man. What sets him apart?

Salvatore Ferragamo was a true visionary, constantly ahead of his time. What set him apart was his ability to think outside the box in terms of both design and function. He studied the anatomy of the foot to create shoes that were not only beautiful but also comfortable, something few people thought about back then. His inventions, such as the wedge heel and the “invisible” sandal, showed his commitment to blending art with practicality. His footwear was not merely the result of craftsmanship but also of research and innovation, embodying a multidisciplinary approach that bridged the arts. In this, he truly represented the spirit of a modern-day Renaissance man. His innovative ideas and craftsmanship made him a true pioneer in the world of fashion.

3) Salvatore was originally from Bonito, a small town in Irpinia, the same region as Naples. He traveled to the US and built an empire in Tuscany. Tell us about his journey.

Salvatore Ferragamo was born in Bonito, a small village in southern Italy. He moved to the United States at a young age to find better opportunities. He first went to Boston and then to California, where he became known as a skilled shoemaker. In Hollywood, he started making shoes for famous movie stars, earning the nickname “shoemaker to the stars.” He designed shoes for actresses like Mary Pickford, Gloria Swanson, and Joan Crawford. His work was loved for its style and comfort. After spending several years in Hollywood, Salvatore decided to return to Italy and start his own brand. He chose Florence for its rich art and craftsmanship. There, he created Ferragamo, a brand known for its high-quality shoes and luxury products. His time in America helped him build the skills and reputation that led to his success in Italy and around the world.

4) Anatomy and making shoes tailored to fit each woman was a Ferragamo trademark. Tell us about this aspect of his work.

One of Salvatore Ferragamo’s most remarkable innovations was his focus on creating shoes that fit the unique shape of each woman’s foot. He was fascinated by the anatomy of the foot and studied it carefully to understand how shoes could be both stylish and comfortable. Ferragamo even went as far as measuring his clients’ feet to create custom designs tailored specifically for them. Thanks to his research, Ferragamo patented a steel shank, the cambrione, which supported the arch of the foot, allowing it to move like an inverted pendulum. This innovation shifted the weight away from the metatarsal joints and heel, enabling the shoes to guide the body’s balance while walking, rather than opposing it. His shoes weren’t just fashion statements; they were designed to provide comfort without compromising on elegance, making them truly one of a kind.

5) Who were some of Salvatore Ferragamo’s famous customers?

Ferragamo personally measured his clients’ feet to create wooden lasts, genuine sculptures that included any defects, large or small, of the foot and that were used for the construction of shoes. Some of these lasts have been preserved in the Ferragamo Archive and are shown in the exhibition.

Ferragamo also kept notes on his customers’ tastes and idiosyncrasies, which were revealed in his autobiography, where we learn, for example, that Gloria Swanson and Claudette Colbert preferred classic shoes, Marlene Dietrich asked for the latest styles and never wore them more than twice, the Duchess of Windsor ordered two-tone shoes for the summer and monochrome shoes for the winter, while Ingrid Bergman felt most comfortable in low heels and Evita Perón requested exotic skins from her country, Argentina. The different styles owed their originality as much to Ferragamo’s innate creativity as to the different personalities of his exacting clientèle. While Marilyn Monroe’s sensuality was emphasised by the famous pumps with four-inch heels, the sporty, minimalist elegance of Greta Garbo was enhanced by the men’s shoes she almost always wore.
Also, Audrey Hepburn, known for her elegant style and timeless fashion sense, was a notable customer of Salvatore Ferragamo. Hepburn’s relationship with Ferragamo started in the 1950s, at the peak of her Hollywood career. 

In his autobiography, Ferragamo divided women into three categories: Cinderellas, Venuses and Aristocrats. 

“The Cinderella takes a shoe smaller than size six. The Cinderella is essentially a feminine person, a lover of jewels and furs, who must be in love to be truly happy. The Venus takes six and is usually of great beauty, glamour and sophistication, yet under her glittering exterior she is often essentially a home body loving the simple things of life. Because these two characteristics are mutually contradictory the Venus is often misunderstood. People accuse her of too much luxury-loving and frivolity. The Aristocrat wears a seven or larger. The Aristocrats are sensitive, even moody, but possess a great depth of understanding.” 

6) Ferragamo became a family business and has grown throughout the years beyond shoes to become a multi-faceted fashion brand. Tell us about the evolution.

After Salvatore’s death, his wife Wanda and after all the sons and daughters took over the business and expanded it into a global luxury brand. The company started to produce more than just shoes, adding clothing, bags, accessories, and perfumes to its collection. Ferragamo’s focus on craftsmanship and quality remained central, but the brand evolved to meet the changing demands of fashion. Over the years, Ferragamo has continued to innovate and adapt while staying true to its roots. Today, it is recognized worldwide not just for its shoes, but for its complete range of luxury fashion products.

7) What is the mission of the Ferragamo museum?
Since the mid-1990s, there have been many initiatives and exhibitions conceived and organized by the museum with the aim not only of telling the story of a man but also of expressing the company’s openness and interest in the most significant aspects of the contemporary world. Through the museum, the history of the Company and its Founder becomes a source of inspiration and reflection, offering valuable insights for shaping the future.

8) In recent years, the Ferragamo brand has evolved. Can you describe its current focus?

In recent years, Ferragamo has focused on adapting to modern trends while maintaining its commitment to quality and craftsmanship. The brand has embraced sustainability, incorporating eco-friendly materials and processes in its products. It has also embraced innovation, exploring new designs, technologies, and ways to connect with younger generations. Ferragamo remains true to its Italian heritage, blending classic luxury with contemporary style. Today, the brand is not only about shoes but also about offering a full range of luxury fashion products, from accessories to clothing.